Flat Maille Instructions

Flat Maille Project - Flat Maille, aka European 4-in-1. The project shown above uses 18ga 3.5mm ID jump rings. This size may be a little tight for the beginner, so we are showing the step-by-step using 16ga 5.0mm ID jump rings (approx 35 rings per row for a 7.5" bracelet). You can use just about any size jump ring to create a tight or open weave. Our teaching method is a full proof way to make any size maille.

Overview: Preparation is everything in the success of this project. By lashing the initial row of jump rings to a mandrel, knitting needle or dowel (we use a bamboo skewer in this example) anyone can make any length or width of flat maille chain with ease.

This project uses the following size jump rings.

sp1835OR LARGER

       
 

STEP 1: Materials

Jump Rings: There are many size rings that you can use for this project. Each gauge of wire has a minimum Inside Diameter. For example anything smaller than 4.0mm ID in 16 gauge will be too tight to construct.

Recommendations:
16ga 4.0mm ID or greater
18ga 3.5mm ID or greater
20ga 3.0mm ID or greater
22ga 2.5mm ID or greater

Dowel: Steele Mandrel, Thin metal knitting needle, hardwood dowel or bamboo skewer at least 12 inches long

Craft Wire: 24ga - 28ga

 

  Flat Maille materials
 

STEP 2: The Starter

Attach the end of a piece of craft wire (3ft or 24ga - 26ga) to a 12" length of dowel. A steel mandrel, thin metal knitting needle, bamboo skewer or hardwood dowel can be used.

NOTE: The direction that you wrap the wire is important. Place the wire on top of the mandrel and bring it behind, then down. The wire should come toward you as it passes underneath.

  fm_step2a
 

STEP 3: Link One

Close 30-40 jump rings to be used for the first row.

Thread a closed jump ring on to the craft wire, move it up the wire until it reaches the dowel.

Wrap the wire over the top of the dowel and thread it back through the jump ring and back over the top. You should now have a jump ring hanging from the bottom of the dowel.

Wrap the wire one revolution on the dowel next to the ring. This will keep the rings evenly spaced.

  Flat Maille Step 3
 

STEP 4: Link Two

Thread a second closed jump ring on to the craft wire, move it up the wire until it reaches the dowel.

Wrap the wire over the top of the dowel and thread it back through the jump ring and back over the top. You should now have a jump ring hanging from the bottom of the dowel.

Wrap the wire on revolution on the dowel next to the ring. This will keep the rings evenly spaced.
  Flat Maille Step 4
 

STEP 5: Complete the row

Continue adding jump rings using the method above. Do your best to keep the spacing between rings so that each ring overlaps the previous ring.

The number of rings necessary are based on the target length of your project and the size of your jump rings. This project is using 16ga 5.0mm ID jump rings and requires approx. 35 per row. It is easier to remove jump rings after the project is complete then add them afterward.

  Flat Maille Step 5
 

STEP 6: Mark the end

As you complete each row, you will flip the work, allowing you to add each row in the same direction. We find that marking the end is a good reminder what side you should be on.

Arrange the jump rings so that each ring overlaps the previous ring.

  Flat Maille Step 6
 

STEP 7: Start Row 2

Locate the space formed by the overlapping rings and add a new jump ring.

crossring

It does not matter if you add the ring from the front or the back, just be consistent and add them the same way for the entire row.

  Flat Maille Step 7
 

STEP 8: Keep them Aligned

As you add the second row, you will notice that the new row will now maintain their own spacing, creating the overlapping space naturally.
  Flat Maille Step 8
 

STEP 9: End of Row 2

After you place the final ring through the overlap space, add one additional ring to the last ring of the first row.

  fm_step9
 

STEP 10: Flip the work

Flip the work so that your end mark is now on the right

  Flat Maille Step 10
 

STEP 11: Start Row 3

Same process as step 7, the only difference is that that rings overlap in the opposite manner. Find the space where the rings overlap and place a new ring in each spot.

crossring2

Again, you can add the ring from the front or the back as long as it is consistent.

As the third row builds it will mimic the first row.

  Flat Maille Step 11
 

STEP 12: End Row 3

After you place the final ring through the overlap space, add one additional ring to the last ring of the first row.

 

  Flat Maille Step 12
 

STEP 13: Do your end rows line up?

This project works best using an odd number of rows. When you have reached the desired width of your project, the end should be square. If you find an extra ring remove it, a missing ring, add it.

If you are planning to use a multi-strand clasp, skip to step 17.

  fm_step13
 

STEP 14: Reduction

In order to attach a clasp, we need to reduce the rows from seven (in this example) to end in a single ring.

Attach a new jump ring to connect rows 1 & 3

Attach a new jump ring to connect rows 3 & 5

Attach a new jump ring to connect rows 5 & 7

Add the new rings in the same direction so that they are identical to the rings in that same row.

  fm_step14
 

STEP 15: Reduce Again

Attach a new jump ring to connect rows 2 & 4

Attach a new jump ring to connect rows 4 & 6

  fm_step15
 

STEP 16: One Last Time

To bring the chain to a single connection point

Attach a new jump ring to connect rows 3 & 5.

Now flip the chain and complete steps 13 thru 16 on the other end. When complete you should have a flat chain with tapers on each end.

.

  fm_step16
 

STEP 17: Remove the Dowel

Remove the dowel from the coiled craft wire. Metal dowels will slide out easily, wood dowels will need some finesse. After you remove the dowel, snip the craft wire every 6-7 loops to make smaller segments of wire. This makes it easier to remove the wire with a pair of chain nose pliers.

If you are adding a multi-strand clasp, skip to step 19.

  fm_step17
 

STEP 18: Add the Clasp

Any type of clap will work. Depending on the gauge jump rings you have chosen for your project, you may need to attach the clasp with a smaller jump ring.

  fm_step18
 

STEP 19: Alternative: Adding a Multi-Strand Clasp

Multi-strand clasps give a very clean look to flat maille, but finding a clasp that is the perfect size can be challenging. Assuming you have chosen to use a mult-strand clasp, be sure that your rows are in line and connect the loops of the clasp to the odd rows of the flat maille.

In this example smaller jump rings were used to attach rows 1, 3 & 5. It is possible to use the even rows and attach a 2-strand clasp to the example (pictured to the right), but this would cause the outer edges of the chain to become floppy.

  fm_step19
 
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