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How to Make A Resin Pendant / Link

Preparation is the most important part of this project. Spend the time preparing the images and you will get a flawless image.


	STEP 1: The Image Crop your photo to the approximate size of the pendent or link. Leaving a little extra border is recommended. It is easier to cut a little extra off the picture than have a gap between the photo and the frame. The paper used in the image is very important: Scrapbook Paper: Okay Magazine Clipping: Okay Inkjet/Laser print on quality paper: Good Inkjet/Laser on Photo Paper: Better Photographic Print: Best
	STEP 2: Cut to Size The image should fit inside of the borders of the frame. There should be a small amount of wiggle room. Do not force the image to fit inside. Continue to trim the picture until it will lay inside the frame. Be sure that the image makes full contact with the base of the frame to prevent air bubbles from getting trapped in the finish.
	STEP 3: Coat Back of the Image with Sealant Coat the back and edges of your image with a thin coat of sealant. We recommend our Resin Guard sealant for preserving your image. Wet resin can be absorbed into the fibers of the paper which causes staining. White glue as an alternative product for sealing in this step.
	STEP 4: Glue to the Frame Using a paint brush, apply a thin coat of sealant to the inside of the frame, including the edges and corners. Let the sealant dry till it is tacky.
	STEP 5: Press into the Frame Press your image into the frame, making full contact on all edges. You may wish to use a plastic or wood burnishing tool to get the best contact.
	STEP 6: Coat the front (option) If you are using a lab produced photograph (not from ink-jet printer) you may skip this step. The more porous the paper, the more important it is to put on a top coat of water based sealant (like our Resin Guard Sealant). It is best to add several coats, depending on the paper stock. Allow each coat dry between applications. Recommended # of coats: Scrapbook Paper or Magazine Clipping: 3 coats Ink-jet or Laser print on quality paper: 2 coats Ink-jet /Laser on Photo Paper: 1 coats Photographic Print: not required
	STEP 7: Measure the Resin Resin does not dry, it cures, and curing is chemical reaction. This chemistry lesson is to stress that the success of this project is all about measuring the resin and hardener components correctly. For best results average room temperature should be around 68˚-70˚F. and normal humidity. Letting the resin bottles sit in a hot water bath for 10 minutes will make it easier to pour and measure, and reduce the bubble created while mixing. For the resin to cure correctly, you should make each batch no less than 1/2 oz at a time. This will make approx. 10-15 1/2" pendants. Our Professional Resin product mixes 1 to 1 ratio by volume. On your measuring cup, mark 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz. using a marker. Pour in the resin first (marked A). It is thick like honey, take your time and hit the first mark. Pour the hardener (marked B), much thinner, to the second mark.
	STEP 8: Stir Thoroughly Use a wooden stir stick and mix A/B thoroughly for 2 minutes. Let the mixture sit for 5 minutes to allow the bubbles to rise to the top. Keep the stir stick in the resin to be used later.
	STEP 9: Transfer the resin Don't pour the resin. Use the stir stick to transfer it. Let it drip off the stir stick into the frame. Don't spread the resin mixture, it will spread out to the corners on its own. Fill the frame to the rim. Now add more. A few drops at a time and you can build the resin up above the frame to create the doming effect.
	STEP 9a: How much Resin to Add Our Professional Doming Resin is designed to dome. Meaning you can keep adding resin even after you fill the frame. Keep adding resin a drop at a time. Depending on the size and depth of the frame, you can exceed the height of the frame by 50%. If you the resin runs over the edge, don't worry. This product does not adhere to metal, after curing, any run off will peel off the metal casting. Note: Resin will stick to everything else, protect your work surface.
	STEP 10: Let the Bubbles Rise There are two kinds of bubbles; Micro bubbles (scum) shown here and Pin Head bubble (the size of a pin head). Micro bubble form during mixing of the resin. They will work themselves out, faster with heat (see pro tips below). Pin Head bubbles sneak up on you, they are caused by air trapped under the image that rise up to the surface over time. If you find a pin head bubble, use a needle to pop it. Most large bubble rise within the first 15 minutes, but it is worth checking your work every 15 minutes for the next hour.
	STEP 11: Professional tip - Bubbles For those of you that will produce a quantity of resin pictures, invest in a butane torch. It is a great bubble popping tool. For best results, keep the torch 6-8 inches away from the resin and click the flame on and off quickly, like firing a gun. This quick burst of heat will pop the bubbles. Resin is not flammable, but be conscious of the surrounding area. If you focus the flame on the work for any length of time, the heat affect your photo. The picture on the right was hit with 4 quick bursts of the micro-torch, which immediately popped the micro bubbles.
	STEP 12: Cure the Resin At room temperature (68˙) your resin will cure in approx. 9 hours. High humidity and cold temperatures can prevent your resin from curing in the standard time. Fast Cure: Every 10-15 degree increase in temperature will reduce the curing by about one hour. Quick cure: 150˙F oven will cure in about 90 minutes. This method is not recommended for beginners. Many times you will miss the bubbles when you fast cure.

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